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This month we are able to have an unusual chance to focus on the origins of a few of the flavours that can predominate in specific wines. John Manley will present exemplary wines, aiming to shine a light on the molecular causes of the flavours present. He is one of a very few experts in this area. The tasting is one of a series offered by John; this one will consider:


Lychee & Gewürztraminer, Iodine, Vin Jaune, Carbonic Maceration, and Calories


I have summarised John’s introduction as follows: 


Lychee is an aroma/taste almost always associated with Gewürztraminer – even when it is late harvest or botrytized. The molecule largely responsible for the lychee/rose taste has some interesting stereochemistry. 


Iodine is romantically linked with Chablis through its prehistoric oyster beds, although it is well down the list when it comes to Iodine found in grapes and wines. 


Few wines can be called unique. Vin Jaune is definitely one of them. Made from the Savagnin grape in the Jura region of France its production has aspects similar to Sherry, although it is not fortified. Its ageing produces aromas and tastes similar to those found in Champagne. 


Carbonic Maceration is a pre-fermentation process that creates a small amount of ethanol by different routes. It has an impact on volatiles, acidity and tannins of the resulting wines. Beaujolais Nouveau uses Carbonic Maceration to produce wines for immediate drinking full of bright red fruit and unmistakable waves of esters.


Calories in wine are counterintuitive. Sugar is only a contributor to the calorie count. A Passimento and a Passito from Italy illustrate the effects.






Woodthorpe Wines - Matthew Whitaker


On the 13 March we hosted Mathew Whittaker from Woodthorpe Wines. Although this was Matthews’s first presentation to the Grand Union he is no stranger to Leicester having led tastings at the Pheonix where he has built a substantial following. Mathew started his career in hospitality and trained as a sommelier working in fine dining before opening Woodthorpe wines. He brought his wealth of experience of working with wine and food and his stories of the ups and downs of life as a sommelier.


Mathew presented an eclectic selection of wines, each of which represented an aspect of his career. For example, he had championed English sparkling wine taking it from a curiosity for the occasional aficionado to the best-selling sparkling wine in the restaurant. So he opened with the Furleigh Estate Classic Cuvee 2019, which delighted the crowd with its golden colour, brioche nose and lingering red apple notes. He is a fan of sherry, believing (quite rightly) that it represents incredible value for money. We tasted Tio Pepe Fino Enrama 2025 (an unfiltered sherry with a short bottle life) which was fresh, accessible and delicious and, at the other end of the sherry spectrum, Don PX 2003 Toro Albalá Montilla-Moriles, a PX with all the power, length and sweetness of liquidised Christmas pudding. Both sherrys split the audience but each had its fans. For me, the bargain of the night was the Barolo Tenuta La Volta Cabutto 2020: grippy, tannic and tight fruit with great complexity. While good on the night it’s a wine which will be savoured for years to come.


Mathew’s perspective on wine is different from that of a maker or a merchant, a perspective which engaged us all. He got questions from both ‘the usual suspects’ but also from some members I don’t remember asking questions before. All in all, a very enjoyable and informative evening.


For more information: https://www.woodthorpewines.co.uk


The wines tasted were:

  1. Furleigh Estate, Classic Cuvée, 2019. England. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier

  2. Tio Pepe, Fino en Rama, 2025. Jerez, Spain.

  3. Domaine de la Croix Senaillet, 2022. Saint-Veran, France. Chardonnay

  4. Zind Humbrecht, Grand Cru Goldert, 2023. Alsace, France. Muscat

  5. Judith Beck, 2023. Burgenland, Austria. Blaufränkisch

  6. Domaine Chaume-Arnaud, 2021. Vinsobres, France. Grenach, Syrah, Cinsault, Mouvedre

  7. Cabutto, Tenuta La Volta, 2020. Barolo, Italy. Nebbiolo

  8. Bodegas Toro Alablá, Don PX, 2003. Jerez, Spain. Pedro Ximenez



Champagne Verrier et Fils - Emmanuel and Laurence Verrier


On February 13th we were delighted to have a presentation from the Champagne producers Emmanuel and Laurence Verrier of Verrier et Fils in Étoges. This tasting was organised by our deputy chairman Bob McKinley following his many personal visits there.


Étoges is in the Côtes de Blancs, about 10 km just south of Épernay, in the heart of the Chanpagne region. The wines of Verrier et Fils are made by the 5th generation of the family, and are made without herbicides or insecticides. We were taken through their entire range, from the zero dosage Nature, the 5 g/l dosage Ismérie to the 30 g/l Demi-Sec (the others being 7 g/l); the Ismérie and the Raymond Verrier benefiting from some oak.


We had a high turnout for this tasting. It was very well appreciated, not only as a rare Champagne tasting, but also for the first-hand knowledge that Emmanuel and Laurence were able to bring.


For more information: https://www.champagne-verrier.com


The wines tasted were:

  1. Brut Nature, NV. 33% Pinot Meunier, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay

  2. Tradition Brut, NV. 75% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Noir

  3. Pinot Noir Brut, NV. 100% Pinot Noir

  4. Fleuron Brut, NV. 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir

  5. Ismérie Extra-Brut, NV. 100% Chardonnary

  6. Raymond Verrier, 2019. 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir

  7. Rosé Brut, NV. 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir (& Pinot Meunier as red)

  8. Tradition Demi-Sec, NV. 33% Pinot Meunier, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay


 Emmanuel and Laurence Verrier, with deputy chairman Bob McKinley on the right
Emmanuel and Laurence Verrier, with deputy chairman Bob McKinley on the right

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